I have always enjoyed Papua New Guinea because it provides such a nice balance between bizarre muck creatures and lovely wide-angle scenics. When Peter Hughes called me to say they had just initiated a new itinerary out of Rabaul on Star Dancer, this time cruising the south coast of New Britain Island, really that's about all I needed to know to commit to this charter. I had previously toured the north coast, specifically Father's Reef and Witu Islands out of Walindi Plantation aboard FeBrina, and those areas plus the Duke of York Islands from Rabaul on Star Dancer. While either of those was certainly good enough to merit a repeat, the north shore of the island is in the Bismarck Sea, while the south is the Solomon Sea. Is it much different? That's what we're here to find out.

Now, 34 hours after lifting off from Miami International I have arrived in Rabaul's airport, tired, dirty, but otherwise a pretty uneventful sojourn thus far.

We check into the Hamamas Hotel for the overnight. While the Hamamas is the Rabaul equivalent of the Four Seasons, by any other standard it is a basic accommodation. Clean rooms, nice hot showers, a bar with a pool table, a good restaurant, and a secure environment. The phones in the rooms worked easily to direct dial the US, but the Internet is only via the office computer and I never could connect. There is no cell service here either, domestic or international, by any carrier.

Map courtesy Peter Hughes Diving

The next morning we went to the local market and negotiated for some woven goods. If we wanted some fish or produce, there was plenty of that, for it is more a local market than a tourist attraction. But, the people were very gracious and willingly posed for pictures. Obviously, it is a good idea to ask permission first, and keep a few kina in your pocket for model compensation. (Note: At the time of our travel the rate is roughly 3 kina to the US dollar.)

Afterwards we went to a World War II museum. There was very fierce US/Japanese conflict here during World War II, and they have accumulated a nice collection of tanks, anti-aircraft guns, and miscellaneous airplane bits and pieces that probably pretty well littered the region after the war. It is certainly worth a couple hours of your time to visit here, and it will provide not only an interesting historical insight, but some worthy photo-ops as well.

A day or so in Rabaul is probably all most dive tourists will need, so we were happy enough be transported to Star Dancer late that afternoon.

Allan Raabe, the same bloke who introduced me to New Britain aboard FeBrina years ago, captains the Star Dancer. It was good to see my old friend, but somewhat strange to see him so pale and distressed. "Don't mind me, I've just got a bit of malaria." His characteristic understatement was echoed by the cook, Andrew, "We can't take malaria medicine every day of our life, the pills are worse than the disease. So, every so often we just have to live with it". Damn. That sounds rough. But, as it turned out I guess it was just a bit of the flu, for he was back to his normal self a few days later. Although for Allan, "normal" is a relative term. But, gregarious as ever, it was good to have him at the helm.

The southern coast is reasonably new for him too, at least in terms of a charter itinerary. He has been coming here on holidays and personal exploration for over ten years though. While he and crew are very eager to please, as the week went by we were challenged by water clarity on many of the sites, probably averaging 35-60 feet, but Star Dancer was nimble enough to provide lots of stellar close-up and macro opportunities. On the offshore pinnacles and few sites where tidal flow brought the visibility up to 100 feet plus, we tried to make the most of our wide-angle opportunities. But, one should know at the outset that this is definitely not the Red Sea/Fiji/Maldives/Coral Sea as far as water clarity goes. However, there were other charms, as we discovered as our 10-day adventure progressed.

About the Boat - Star Dancer, Papua New Guinea

From www.peterhughes.com

Note about laundry service - It is a courtesy of the boat, and a very welcome amenity. Clothes are left in a laundry bag in the morning, and returned neatly folded in the same bag by evening.

Dive Day 1 - Jonny's Jetty, Atun Wreck

We begin the trip with a potentially very special dive at a small pier they call "Jonny's Jetty". The proviso has more to do with local conditions than the quality of the dive, for the critters are quite spectacular. Lots of lionfish, both common and fire species, as well as frogfish, nudibranch, scorpionfish, and all manner of small cryptic critters. However, the site is only about 15 feet deep on the deeper pilings, and the bottom is a light sand that stirs into suspension quite easily. Between our dozen shooters, and the incoming swell, the site turned quite murky quite quickly. It's not like we got skunked, because there is so much life and most of it is sedentary, so we could get in tight to minimize backscatter. However, wide angle was absolutely hopeless here this day.

Nearby is the Atun Wreck, a Taiwanese fishing boat sunk in about 60 feet of water. She sits perfectly upright, and largely intact, although the propeller and some fittings have obviously been salvaged. She is not extravagantly adorned, but there is some nice soft coral and a black coral tree in the wheelhouse, but the greater attraction is the macro life. Actually, the macro life is special because our dive spotter/guides Elsie, Josie, and Martin each are very talented. They use a chopstick to point us to the interesting reef minutia, and their young eyes combine with their local knowledge and enthusiasm to make them huge assets aboard.

Dive Day 2 - Duke of York Islands - The Valley and Two Tanks

Our first dive is to a reef offering a mini-wall dropping from 30 to 100 feet, decorated with large orange elephant-ear sponge (most of which have crinoids atop). The marine life is especially abundant, but there was a crocodilefish in a nice set-up. Actually, my favorite part of the dive was right under the boat in 20 feet of water where a pristine coral garden of staghorn and antler corals provide refuge to masses of brown chromis, anthias, and occasionally some Clark's anemonefish amid the hard corals.

Later we dived the unlikely wreckage of a pair of tanks from World War II. I'll have to ask Allan how they came to be here, but photographically they are a challenge due to the very milky water here. Still, how many opportunities will any of us have to photograph military tanks underwater? So, I put a fisheye lens on my digital camera and gave it a try. Not too bad actually, all things considered.

Note: As there is some scattered wreckage from what is assumed is a landing craft, the consensus is that the tanks were being transported ashore and US aircraft sank the ship. The water is very shallow, so over the years wave action destroyed the vessel, leaving only the tanks. The cannons and machine guns have been salvaged, leaving the bulk of the tracked tanks and some munitions inside.

Dive Day 3 - Macklin Two

While we do several dives this day, the highlight is our visit to Macklin Two. There is a sloping wall to about 95 feet, decorated with massive gorgonia fans. Along the sandy bottom is an opportunity to see blue-spotted stingrays. Getting close is another matter, but almost certainly they'll be seen. About 20 yards across the sand flat reveals another wide pinnacle rising to about 45 feet. This too is decorated by filter feeders.

As the bottom time clock ticks it is prudent to head back to the main pinnacle, as it tops out at about 12 feet. Along the reef slope are anemonefish congregates, but the prime photo-op is the resident rhinopias, or weedy scorpionfish. Take 10 shooters, all armed with dual strobes and 4GB cards, and you'd think any self-respecting rhinopias would find another place to live, far from the piscine paparazzi. But, for whatever reason, this is where he chooses to live and was very tolerant of our intrusions.

Long run tonight, about 65 miles. Mostly it was calm, as the south coast is in the lee of the prevailing wind this time of year (January/February). But there is one stretch where the island is lower in elevation, and therefore is less likely to block the wind. Then, just as quick as it started we were in the lee of the mountains again and the seas went flat calm. Six hours of rough seas (three hours each way) out of 10 days ... that's not a bad record for propitious cruising conditions. However, it did give a quick insight into how rough it might have been on the windward side of the island this week.

Perception Versus Reality in PNG

We are now 3 days into this trip and I just figured out that we aren't likely to get stunning visibility ... anywhere. There is an unseasonable amount of rain in the mountains, and while it is warm and sunny along the reefline, the runoff into the rivers eventually makes its way through the filtration of the mangrove coastline and ultimately to our dive sites. Is this typical? Not likely. I think visibility is probably normally quite a bit better than we experienced.

In fact, the week after I got home and reported the water conditions to Peter Hughes, he expressed surprise and got back to me with the following quote:

"The South Coast trip that just now finished reported excellent vis & apparently total satisfaction with the diving! See my point; vis is never a guarantee. We simply cannot be right 100% of the time wherever/whenever weather is involved!! But, we try our best!!"

But, as this is a log of my experience this week, what I saw is what is reported.

Those wide-angle vistas draped with soft coral and washed by aquamarine 150-foot visibility ain't happenin'. Oh, there are certainly vignettes of wide-angle beauty. Lots of big gorgonia fans, soft coral trees, and the crimson whip corals that are so typical of PNG. But, along the south coast they don't exist in the profusion that one would find in the Witu Islands off the north coast of New Britain for example. Typically, the dives are closer to shore along the south coast, and the interplay of rivers and mangroves steps on water clarity. It takes artful application of the wide-angle lens to avoid backscatter, and you might tend to go a bit wider and closer for the most effective imaging.

Or, more likely you'll embrace what they do have plenty of, and enjoy the critter opportunities. There were lots of interesting small creatures, including mandarinfish, nudibranch, frogfish, leaf scorpionfish, pygmy seahorse, octopus, cuttlefish, and all manner of crab and shrimp. There were anthias of course, although not in the profusion typical of the Red Sea or Fiji; but clownfish were usual suspects on most dives. I didn't see many eels, aside from blue-ribbon eels, which struck me as odd for this seemed good eel terrain. Actually, I saw more crocodilefish than eels, and more butterflyfish than angelfish. For whatever that might be worth ... just an observation.

The 60mm and 105mm macro lenses seemed to be the most oft- used tools among our Nikon shooters, while I switched between the 100mm macro and the 17-40mm zoom on my Canon. For days when any wide-angle opportunity developed, the full frame fisheye was very useful. The one lens I did not shoot a lot was the 50mm macro, for I found the small creatures more compelling than the medium sized reef fish. Having said that, the D2X shooters aboard used their 60mm lenses a lot since their 1.5 chip magnification (my camera has a full frame chip, therefore no magnification) gave them an effective 90mm focal length. That lens, along with the Seacam Wet Two diopter (all the photographers aboard, except one, were shooting Seacams this week) provided a full frame composition with small creatures, but more depth of field than a normal 105mm macro lens might offer.

For a small critter specialist, this is a rare and wonderful destination indeed.

Dive Day 4 - Linden Two, Linden Channel, Allan's Island

We are now anchored off Lindenhafen Resort, a rustic fishing camp carved out of the tropical wilderness. Water temperatures remain uncharacteristically warm, 86-degrees, and we assume this may have something to do with the marginal visibility. Also, there are several rivers near here, in fact much of the fishing is done up river from our dive sites. (There was an article in the Air Niuguini in-flight magazine about Lindenhafen Fishing Resort, and according to them, "six rivers that begin their journey from the rugged Whiteman Ranges provide perfect snags that house bass, mangrove jacks, and spottails".)

The channels we dived are really quite nice in terms of topography, but the turbidity limited out options to macro this day. There is an offshore pinnacle here too, just a short run away really, and we did take the boat to have a look. But the current was raging, and as it tops out at 65-feet no one was keen to do the dive under those conditions. Still, when the moon is right and the planets aligned, I believe this could be a wonderful dive. The water was certainly blue and clear here ... at least that was our impression from the surface.

At Allan's Island, our dusk dive, our spotters-extraordinaire proved their worth again, finding the group all manner of cryptic creatures, including a couple of crocodilefish and squat lobster.

Dive Day 5 - Ameo Island, Sharon's Island

I have no doubt there is variability here from week to week. By this time I'd made friends with the dive guides and asked them about the visibility, or lack thereof. They said Michelle Westmorland had been there with a group just last week and the water clarity was consistently better. In fact, the same site we dived this morning, Ameo Island, was one of the highlights of their week with great water clarity and plenty of shark action.

We put a bait bucket down as well, but no sharks seemed interested. That I ascribe to currents, with their group hitting it lucky while we got skunked. That is the kind of local knowledge that Allan and the Star Dancer crew will develop as time goes on, and no doubt these sorts of dives will become more predictable. However, as it was reasonably far offshore, we did hit pretty nice water here, and our dive guide Josie took some time off from critter spotting to model for me for some wide-angle shots.

Sharon’s Island was pretty impressive, actually. Not at first glance maybe, for the coral cover was sparse. But between the sand environment and the coral rubble there were both juvenile and mature blue-ribbon eels, nudibranch, shrimp/goby combos, squid, cuttlefish, and the most vexing of all, mandarinfish. This was not a time where they were coming out of the coral to spawn, so it took very sharp eyes, or more likely the help of a dive guide, to even find them. Nor were they eager to stop and pose for pictures. I found my best tool was the 100mm macro lens with the Wet Two diopter, and even then I had trouble filling the frame before they darted off to hide. As a measure of the quality of this dive, and its shallow depth, my dive was 112 minutes and my 4 GB card fully spent.

Dive Day 6 - Linden Channel, Plane Wreck, Linden Two, Sharon's Island

We remain anchored off Lindenhafen Resort, with a plan to start the morning with a dive to the offshore pinnacle topping out at about 65 feet. Our objective is clear water and wide-angle potential, but once again, a raging current defeats our intent and we went back to Linden Channel. A large group of barracuda is my first sight as I descend from Magic Bus (their name for their jet-drive dive vessel), although they are pretty skittish. Vis is still pretty bad, maybe only 45 feet, but the close-focus wide angle of large gorgonia adorned with crinoid makes it look better than it deserves. The bottom is about 100 feet here, and there are several pinnacles, the shallowest rising to about 37 feet. It isn't very "fishy" here, but the filter feeders are colorfully profuse.

A couple outrigger dugout canoes are visible at the surface. These are local fishermen who brought lobster to the boat earlier (we declined the parrotfish they offered as well). They are good sports about letting me take pictures of them, as most in PNG seem to be. The silhouettes are interesting, and gratefully the slick-calm sea allows some over/under shots.

During World War II the Lindenhafen area was a Japanese seaplane base, and relics of the war are visible in places, both underwater and topside. On a site near the mangroves, in surprisingly clear water (50-60 foot vis) is an upside down floatplane sunk by US aircraft. The propeller sports some crimson encrustation, and there are crinoids here and there, but it remains fairly monochromatic overall, yet dramatic in shape. One of our dive guides, Elsie, handled the modeling task for all the wide-angle shooters, and her instincts were very good. For those equipped with macro lenses this dive this highlight was several pygmy seahorse on some fans at about 70 feet.

Linden Two is a channel dive we had visited previously, but while we were briefed to shoot wide-angle then, and visibility made that a challenge, we went in expecting turbid conditions and chose the right lenses. Macro was the best option, and we found plenty of nudibranch, hawkfish, shrimp, fire dartfish, and even a couple of leaf scorpionfish. The quest for pygmies on this dive came up dry, but there were still plenty of small critters.

Sharon's Island was the dusk-to-night dive for us, seeking more mardarinfish and ribbon eels. We found these and more, including cuttlefish, squid laying eggs, tiny octopus, and myriad bizarre nudibranch.

Dive Day 7 - Linden Channel, Airplane Wreck, Muck Dive in front of Lindenhafen Resort

Linden Channel is much as I'd experienced it before. However, as I had shot wide-angle the last time we visited the Airplane Wreck, this time I opted for a macro shot at the pygmy seahorses. There were two separate sea fans where the guides could reliably find the pygmy's, but the 70-foot depth for the second dive of the day would be limiting. So, we staggered our dives so no more than two shooters would be in line for the same fan at any given time.

These were tiny, as pygmy seahorse is prone to be of course, and the current rather swift. Between the motion of the fan, the contrary nature of the pygmies, and the extremely shallow depth of field of the ultra macro lens, I was missing more shots than I hit. But, I think that is the best strategy for such a subject ... don't be afraid to make a mistake and shoot lots. I did my 10 minutes on the fan, took home some keepers, and relinquished the photo-op to the next shooter.

The sandy area right in front of the resort was quite productive as well. In no more than 15 feet of water we found frogfish, numerous lionfish, shrimp and gobies burrowed in the sand, and several other small blennies I won't begin to recognize until I compare the photos with the fish ID books back on Star Dancer.

Dive Day 8 - Tavaelo Island, Iro Island

Tavaelo is fairly near shore, and hence the reef slope is better suited to macro than wide angle, but at Iro Island we had a sense of how good the pelagic action might be here under the right conditions. This was about a 30-minute run via magic Bus from the anchored Star Dancer, right at the edge of a fringing reef. As soon as we dropped in there was a large school of barracuda and rainbow runner, and for the first time this trip we had shark action as well. Not "in your face" sharks mind you, but they were definitely working the point looking for a meal. Had we chosen this time to bring the bait box I have no doubt the action would amp up a notch. Once we passed the current though the pelagic activity dropped off, leaving us with scenic gorgonian fans and the ubiquitous clownfish.

Dive Day 9 - Macklin One and Two

The trip back to Rabaul allows the opportunity to revisit some of the better sights, and Macklin Two was popular for the rhinopias and massive filter feeders. Elsie agreed to model for me and we headed directly for the deeper pinnacle. After several set-ups we began to rise along the main pinnacle just as the current started to kick in. From the bubbles clustered at the 15-foot range I realized Mr. Rhinopias was hard at work again, if you can count sitting motionless beneath a coral ledge hard duty.

Our plan was to lift anchor at noon to head back to Rabaul, but with an early flight the next day I opted for some topside photo-ops instead of a final macro dive to Macklin One. I took my over/under rig and asked the crew to see if any of the locals with their dugout canoes would be willing to pose. Again, they were very willing, and for a model fee of a few cans of coke and a 10 kina bill I had two very cooperative young men and a scenic sandbar to stage shots. The set-up was great, and while a pristine coral garden would have been more interesting than sandy rubble for the underwater portion, still it was an interesting portrait session providing a bit of local color.

With that and another 14-hour steam back to Rabaul, our Star Dancer South Coast Adventure was wrapped. In retrospect, I think we all wished we would have had better water quality, but no one could fault the crew for their work ethic and attention to our comfort and photographic success. Actually, the entire Star Dancer crew was excellent, a point that was repeated to me several times on the way home from several of our guests.

The itinerary will evolve and improve with experience into current patterns and greater awareness of marine life specific to each of the reefs (although our spotters were already pretty darn impressive in that regard!). Allan made the comment more than once that they were still fine-tuning their itinerary, and hopes I'll come back to try again under better weather conditions. His statement was in recognition of how photographically intense my trips tend to be, and our personal friendship.

But, actually, I kind of liked the exploratory nature of the trip. No one in our group knew exactly what to expect, but for sure it did not feel like a Disney tour where if it is Wednesday you must be on "Aquarium Reef". We were in the wilds, without another dive boat in sight. Actually, the only other boats we saw all week were the dugout canoes from local islanders. Sitting there, in good company on a fine live-aboard, is a pretty sweet way to spend 10 days.

Postscript - I did my final edit of the images on the airplane ride home. In retrospect, I was very pleased with the diversity of the subject matter Star Dancer presented. Living it a day at a time was one thing, but to see the visual representation of all we encountered in the course of a single 10 day charter makes it all time very well spent.

Stephen Frink
Somewhere Over the Pacific, 2/11/06

Here are some travel details that may help you better plan for your PNG Adventure, taken from the trip preparation materials I've provided our guests:

Trip Preparation Info

• You can get your PNG visa upon arrival at Jackson's International Airport in Port Moresby. It is not necessary to go to the expense or trouble to arrange a visa prior to travel.
• The visa cost is 100 Kina (PNG currency) and is payable only in PNG currency. It may be hectic to need to exchange currency at Port Moresby Airport and then get into the visa line. I suggest buying a 100 kina note (about $40 USD) at the airport in Australia, or elsewhere, and then on arrival in PNG you can go directly to the "visitors without visa" line. Have your 100 kina ready and a blank page in your passport - the PNG visa takes the whole page. Remember, we travel as a group, and no one is going anywhere until all guests are through immigration formalities. Don't make yourself crazy over this. We can handle it at the airport if it is not convenient to do so in advance.
• In addition, travelers must possess a valid passport (with 6 months remaining prior to expiration), onward/return airline ticket, and proof of sufficient funds for the intended visit.
• Also - they are very strict with baggage allowance. Unless you are arriving into PNG on Air Niugini the allowance is 35 pounds. If you arrive and depart on Air Niugini it is 70 pounds. Any overweight is appx $3 per 2.2 pounds between Port Moresby and Rabaul. Hand carry is very strict - 15 pounds per person.
• Overweight (inevitable, probably) may be paid by credit card but, be prepared for some inconvenience and expense.
• One thing you do need to take care of is the Australia visa. You will not even be able to transfer between the international and domestic terminals in Australia without an Australian Transit Visa. If you are overnighting anywhere in that country you will need a Visitor Visa.
• Travelers who plan to transit or visit Australia are advised to obtain an Electronic Travel Authority (ETA) or visa for Australia before leaving the United States. The ETA is available to eligible U.S. citizens at the time of ticket purchase through travel agents and airlines. There is a small fee, about $25 as we recall.

Info on Rabaul hotel, from www.peterhughes.com - When the M/V Star Dancer embarks or disembarks at the port of Rabaul on the Gazelle Peninsula, guest may enjoy an extended stay the Hamamas Hotel.

Hamamas Hotel

Located beneath the hills of Rabaul that surround Simpson Harbour, the Hamamas Hotel has been hosting visitors to the area since 1952. Formerly known as the Ascot, it was renamed the Hamamas (meaning "happy" in Pidgin English) when purchased by the Chan family in the 1970's. After being severely damaged by fire in 1984, the hotel was rebuilt by the McGrade family in partnership with Sir Julius Chan, then Prime Minister of Papua New Guinea. Hamamas is now fully owned and operated by the McGrade family.

The Hamamas Hotel is situated 45 minutes from the Rabaul / Kokopo Tokua Airport. Featuring 34 hotel rooms, which cater for all budgets, the hotel's atmosphere reflects a blend of the culture of Rabaul's people (the Tolais) and it's more recent Chinese and Australian influences.

Hamamas is perfectly situated for visitors wanting to discover Rabaul's many unique experiences. It lies within walking distance of the markets and historic sites, and is just 20 meters from the bus stop and direct access to the surrounding attractions. Catering for business travelers or visitors with a special interest in war history, volcanoes, indigenous culture, the islands, diving, fishing, trekking or golf, Hamamas is the perfect base to discover a town shaped by an amazing and dramatic natural and social history.

Hotel Facilities:

Phoenix Restaurant, Specializing in Asian cuisine. Extensive Western menu also available.
Lounge Bar with billiard table.
Casino machines.
20m all weather swimming pool.
Budget Car Hire, Discounts available to in house guests.
Local Tours catering for all budgets.
Conference facilities for 150 people.
Telephone and email (slow, when it works at all).

For a real glimpse of the local culture, take a short walk to the "bung wantaim" markets, where Rabaulians trade their crafts and produce.

Hamamas Hotel - Proprietors are Sue and Bruce Alexander - Website link: www.rabaulhotel.net.pg

I found some nice information on PNG in general on this website.

Malaria: Yes, there is risk for malaria in PNG. This from the CDC website:

Gratuities - As per our norm, gratuities for a live-aboard are normally 10% of your charter fee. $250 per person should be generous. Visa/MC and AMEX are accepted on board. The charge you ultimately receive will not doubt be a bit more than you authorized because all charges go from Kina to Australian dollars to US dollars, and all the money changers take their share apparently.

Peter Hughes Diving has a very thorough "Before You Go" section on their website. From www.peterhughes.com:

Star Dancer, Papua New Guinea

Planning Guide for Papua New Guinea:

Where is Papua New Guinea?
Papua New Guinea is an independent country, comprised of a group of islands situated to the north of Australia . Mainland Papua New Guinea is the eastern part of a large island shared with Irian Jaya to the west. The islands of New Britain and New Ireland lie off the mainland's eastern shores, and there is a myriad of smaller island groups within Papua New Guinea 's waters. Currents from three seas meet around Papua New Guinea; the Bismarck Sea, the Solomon Sea and the Coral Sea, bringing diverse nutrients to feed the remarkable variety of marine life living in these waters.

What is the diving like in the Bismarck Sea?
M/V Star Dancer's itineraries are varied to optimize diving in areas where the diving conditions are best throughout the year. The schedule may include areas of Kimbe Bay , and surrounding waters along the northern coast of New Britain , such as Witu Islands to the North West , and the Willaumez Peninsula . These waters are home to prolific and diverse marine creatures and corals. Recent marine surveys in Kimbe Bay have recorded over 350 species of reef building corals, and over 900 species of fish. M/V Star Dancer also operates from the port of Rabaul on the east end of New Britain Island diving the Gazelle Peninsula . When you arrive consider yourself as an explorer discovering the new world. As you forage your way through reefs teaming with life, you will discover that there are more varieties of fish than you could believe. The diving conditions will range from quiet millpond dives to drift dives along spectacular walls, but the majority of diving is on seamounts (or "bommies") so there is something for everyone.

The reefs are a photographer's paradise. Pristine and colorful corals are home to a variety of fish, crustacean and invertebrate life. Many of the reefs have resident schools of barracuda, tuna and jacks. A range of shark species are regularly sighted, particularly at the outer reefs of Fathers, Witu Islands and the Binnings. Visibility ranges from 80 to 150 ft., depending on the season, and water temperatures range between 84 and 88 degrees Fahrenheit. Most diving is from M/V Star Dancer's spacious dive deck, with easy access via the water level dive platform. Some of the reefs are current washed; without current the spectacular marine life would not be there, however, the wide range of dive sites means that it is not necessary to dive at a site if currents are unmanageable at the time.

Please be advised that due to frequently strong currents it is MANDATORY for each diver to carry an emergency SMB (safety sausage), Dive Alert (personal air horn), and mini-strobe light on all dives. A Mini-B (personal locator beacon) is highly recommended. If you do not bring any one of these devices with you they can be provided for your use while on board the M/V Star Dancer, however, quantities may be limited. If you do not possess these items, please notify our office prior to departure.

Water temperature in Solomon Sea in February is 84 to 86 degrees ... ahhhhh!

What should I know about the conditions in Rabaul?

The city of Rabaul was devastated by volcanic eruption in 1994 and its effects are still evident today. Although the airport and much of the infrastructure has been re-built, there is a great deal of ash settled in the town and more ash continues to fall occasionally.

Will we visit any villages ashore during the cruise?
On many weeks, it is possible for our Star Dancer captain to arrange with a local village to perform a "sing sing" or cultural celebration to which our guests will be invited. Guests are reminded that they should be dressed conservatively (in a sarong or long shorts) while within view of the villages. Do not take photographs without first asking permission to do so. If you care to bring along small gifts for the children we will likely encounter, may we recommend that you offer them books, paper, pens, pencils, rulers, and they also appreciate clothing. Do not give them food, candies or money.

What does my Star Dancer package include?

All staterooms are fitted with private heads and showers (Master Staterooms have bathtubs), individual air-conditioning units and volume controls, vanity basins, and picture windows (except the Owner's Suite which has four porthole views). Breakfast cooked to order, buffet lunch, and gourmet dinners are served daily in addition to fresh mid-morning and mid-afternoon snacks. Beverages (alcoholic and non-alcoholic) are complimentary while on board. Bathrobes and some toiletries are available for your use on board. The M/V Star Dancer is equipped with hairdryers in each stateroom. Linens are changed mid-week and fresh towels are placed in each stateroom daily. Light laundry service is offered. 10% government VAT tax is included. Guests have the opportunity to dive between four and five times a day. Seven night charters include 5.5 dive days (approx. 26 dives) and ten night charters include 8.5 dive days (approx 41 dives). Filled tanks, weights and weightbelt are included.

For what additional expenses will I be responsible?
A fee is charged on your invoice for payment on your behalf to the local recompression chamber (US$15.00 for 7 night cruise or US$25.00 for 10 night cruise). No air transportation is included in the M/V Star Dancer package. The PNG Tourist Visa is 100 Kina (or US$40). This visa may be obtained in advance from the PNG Embassy in Washington , DC or upon arrival in PNG. Additionally, upon departure from Port Moresby prior to your international flight home, an "Airport Maintenance Fee" of approx. 30 Kina is charged. Instruction, dive and photo equipment rentals and "Boatique" purchases must be settled on board prior to departure. No meals or beverages on shore are included (except when the charter ends at Walindi Resort, then the final night BBQ dinner is included, but the beverages on shore are not included). Crew Gratuities are not included. Divers Alert Network (DAN) membership is required and not included in your package price.

How will I get from the airport to the Star Dancer?
Round-trip transfers are provided from and to Hoskins (for Walindi departures and arrivals) or Tokua (for Rabaul departures and arrivals) depending on your itinerary if you arrive and depart on M/V Star Dancer's charter schedule. In Rabaul transfers can also be arranged from local hotels. Guest who arrive before 3:30 will be taken to the Kaivuna Hotel where day rooms may be available on a share basis at additional charge. You may wish to bring you bathing suit to take a dip in the pool. Your luggage will be waiting for you aboard the M/V Star Dancer. Meals on land are not part of your package, but are available in the restaurant of the hotel. Transfer to the M/V Star Dancer is approx. 3:30 pm . If you for any reason cannot make the collection points please contact Star Dancer's local agent Wanda at (675) 982-7160 and we will do everything possible to get you to the boat. The M/V Star Dancer usually departs the dock at approx. 5:00 pm depending on flight schedules and other conditions.

How is the dive schedule planned?
While we strive to offer our guests up to 5 dives per day and at least two dives on the day we return to port, there may be situations, such as sea conditions or tide changes which will prevent us from doing so. Sometimes we are restricted from leaving port until Sunday morning due to tides, which may prevent us from offering five dives on that day. Sometimes we are only able to offer one dive on Friday mornings in order to enter the marina safely with the high tide. We are unable to offer diving on Friday afternoon since most guests are flying home Saturday morning and the crew need this time to attend to administrative responsibilities and provisioning. We usually offer between 25 to 27 dives per charter, but the exact number may vary. We appreciate your patience and understanding about this situation over which we have no control.

If I am traveling as a single, will I have a roommate?
All rates are quoted on a share basis, so unless you require a guaranteed single room and pay an additional 65% supplement, you will very likely be sharing your stateroom with one other guest of the same gender.

Star Dancer departs from and returns to Walindi Resort or Rabaul Slipways (according to your chosen itinerary). You will need to fly into Hoskins airport from which transfers are arranged to Walindi or you will fly into Tokua Airport near Rabaul. Commercial airlines with service to Papua New Guinea include Air Nuigini and Qantas, sometimes connecting from Sydney , Brisbane , Cairns , Manila or Singapore . When your travel itinerary requires an overnight stay in Port Moresby , may we suggest that the Loloata Resort is a safe and comfortable facility with excellent dive and snorkeling opportunities. If you wish us to assist with your hotel or flight arrangements, be sure to contact Peter Hughes Diving's travel specialist, Dive Easy Travel, at 1-800-9-DANCER for the most competitive airfares.

What luggage restrictions do I need to be concerned about?
For international flights, please check with your carrier about weight restrictions and any other restrictions on the content of your luggage. International arrivals from airlines other than Air Nuigini are limited to 35 lbs on Air Nuigini's domestic service. For scuba divers only, for arrivals in Port Moresby on Air Nuigini from any international gateway city (as long as the flight number is an Air Nuigini (PX) flight number not a code share flight with Qantas), guests are allowed 2 pieces of luggage with weight not to exceed 68 lbs TOTAL (not per piece). One (1) carry on piece of weight not to exceed 10 lbs is permitted. Overweight penalties will be charged on each sector flown as follows: Hoskins - 6 Kina per Kg, which is approx 2.2 lbs Rabaul - 7 Kina per Kg, which is approx 2.2 lbs. For example, fly 4 sectors or 4 flights, and they will pay these charges 4 times.

When guests arrive in Port Moresby, they should do their transfer to their domestic flight all in the PNG Customs area and not to take luggage out of PNG Customs to re-check in the domestic terminal. Guests should clear PNG Customs and re-check baggage all in the Customs area before proceeding to board their domestic flight.

Do I need a Passport or Visa for PNG?
North American citizens must carry a PASSPORT and obtain a TOURIST VISA (PGK100 or US$40.00 on arrival). If you want to purchase your Tourist Visa in advance you may do so directly from the Papua New Guinea Embassy 202-745-3680. Guests of all other nationalities should check if further documentation is required (guests from Eastern Bloc countries will need to obtain a visa prior to arrival). For assistance you may choose to contact a travel documentation company that will charge additional fees for their services. May we recommend Travel Document Systems, Inc. 734 Fifteenth St. NW., Suite 400 Washington, DC 20005. Phone 202-638-3800 or 800-424-8472. Guests in transit to Papua New Guinea through Australia must also obtain an Australian Visa, which can be done electronically by the travel agent who arranges for your air ticket.

Do I need trip insurance? (Their emphasis replicated here)
WE STRONGLY RECOMMEND THAT EACH GUEST PURCHASE COMPREHENSIVE ACCIDENT, MEDICAL, BAGGAGE AND TRIP CANCELLATION/INTERRUPTION INSURANCE WHEN SPACE IS RESERVED. TRIP INSURANCE WILL PROTECT YOU FROM FINANCIAL DISAPPOINTMENT IN THE EVENT UNFORESEEN CIRCUMSTANCES PREVENT YOU OR THE VESSEL FROM MAKING THE SCHEDULED TRIP. IN THE EVENT THAT IT IS NECESSARY TO CANCEL OR INTERRUPT A CRUISE DUE TO WEATHER OR ANY MATTER BEYOND THE CONTROL OF PETER HUGHES DIVING, INC. ™, THERE WILL BE NO REFUND OR CREDIT ISSUED. WE ALSO RECOMMEND DIVING ACCIDENT INSURANCE. PLEASE INQUIRE WITH OUR RESERVATION OFFICE FOR ASSISTANCE.

What paperwork will I need to dive?
Please bring your certification card and log book(s) for verification of your dive training/experience. You will be required to complete and sign a standard release and waiver form prior to your arrival. Please remember that you alone are responsible for determining your medical and physical fitness to dive or to take part in any other activities during this trip. DIVING ACTIVITIES ARE CONDUCTED AT YOUR OWN RISK. We take no responsibility with respect to your determination. If you have any questions concerning your medical or physical fitness to dive or take part in any such activities, please consult your personal physician.

How much shall I pack?
Please plan to travel light, as on all liveaboards space is limited. We recommend that you pack your gear in soft luggage such as duffel bags for easy stowage and leave those large, rigid suitcases at home, which will add to your comfort in your cabin. For guests on a longer itinerary, it is advised to pack separately the gear you will require on board. M/V Star Dancer has storage facilities on shore at Walindi or in Rabaul (depending on itinerary) for items you will not require on board, or for those larger suitcases once you have removed the necessary items for your trip. Clothing should be lightweight, comfortable sportswear and bathing suits are a must. A light sweater or throw-over is ideal for evening - especially during the months of June through August. Dress aboard M/V Star Dancer is always casual, however, it should be noted that ladies with uncovered upper thighs will offend Papua New Guineans in New Britain. Please bring a sarong to cover up with when in sight of shore. Additional items you may want to bring are sunscreen, sunglasses, a hat or visor and BUG SPRAY OR LOTION IS STRONGLY RECOMMENDED FOR YOUR TIME ON SHORE. Hairdryers are provided in each cabin. You may wish to pack your regulator, dive computer, mask, bathing suit, and change of clothes and essential items in your carry-on bag. This will make it easier in the event your luggage is delayed. Pony bottles, Spare Air cylinders, etc. should NOT be packed inside your luggage.

What if I am prone to seasickness?
Strong currents and winds may cause moderate movement of the vessel at times. If you have a tendency toward seasickness we strongly urge you to bring some sort of over the counter motion medication or consult your doctor about prescription brands like the Transderm Patch. Chewable ginger tablets or capsules of powdered ginger have also proven to be a very effective natural alternative.

What if there is an accident on board?
The M/V Star Dancer crew is trained in first aid and diving accident management. The boat is equipped with a complete first aid kit and a high capacity oxygen system. Since emergency transportation and treatment cost is the responsibility of each guest, we strongly recommend that you obtain special insurance for divers such as DAN or PADI Accident Insurance

Where is the nearest recompression chamber?
Melanesian Hyperbaric Services is a facility in Port Moresby established and maintained with your diving safety in mind. Not too long ago, divers were evacuated to Australia for treatment since no chamber existed in PNG. Dive accident insurance covers the cost of your treatment in a recompression facility, but your contribution to MHS supports the existence of that facility. In the event air evacuation is required this must be arranged during daylight hours from Tokua or Hoskins airports. If this chamber is unavailable or if more comprehensive treatment is required, air evacuation will be made to Townsville , Australia . Due to the delays which have been encountered in the process of securing air evacuation through other insurance companies from this remote destination, DIVERS ALERT NETWORK (DAN) MEMBERSHIP IS MANDATORY FOR ALL STAR DANCER GUESTS.

How can my family contact me in case of an emergency at home?
Your family may contact you in the case of a medical emergency by calling our Miami office at 1-800-9DANCER (800-932-6237) or 305 669-9391 during business hours or by using the emergency pager number (954-209-8538) after hours. The M/V Star Dancer is equipped with satellite communications, however, the cost of both incoming and outgoing calls is very expensive (US$7.50/minute). The satellite phone number should be dialed as you would to call Australia : 61-145-126-033.

Are any immunizations required?
As Malaria is prevalent in Papua New Guinea , you should consult your personal physician in reference to anti-malarial preventative medication and/or the Center for Disease Control in Atlanta . N.B. Unconfirmed reports that a certain, often prescribed anti-malarial drug can, in some instances, cause DCS-like symptoms should be discussed with your personal physician and/or the CDC in Atlanta (404-639-3311). Further information is available at the CDC website (http://www.cdc.gov/).

What type of food is prepared?
Meals prepared by your on-board chef consists mainly of a Western style menu, but some dishes will incorporate local specialties. If you have any special dietary requirements, please advise our Miami office as soon as possible so we can adequately prepare to meet your needs. Please understand that certain special dietary and beverage requests may not be available on a consistent basis in Papua New Guinea due to the remote nature of this location.

What kinds of beverages are available?
M/V Star Dancer’s selection includes fruit juices, soft drinks, plenty of iced water (not bottled), tea and coffee, and a limited selection of beer, wine and alcoholic beverages. Fresh milk is not available in PNG, although UHT long life milk is provided on board. Herbal teas are not always available. We encourage you to consume lots of non-alcoholic liquids during the week to avoid dehydration. If you have a favorite libation you cannot do without we suggest you purchase this at a Duty Free shop and bring it with you as our selection is sometimes limited by the nature of our location. REMEMBER: Alcohol and diving DO NOT MIX. For your safety, we recommend that the consumption of any alcoholic beverage be delayed until your dive day is complete. FRIENDS DON'T LET FRIENDS DRINK AND DIVE!

Is smoking permitted?
No cigarette, cigar or smoking of any kind is permitted on the M/V Star Dancer, except in the designated outdoors smoking area of the Lido Deck. Smoking is not permitted in any area where all guests must be assembled for any reason, for example, at dive briefings.

Is there entertainment on board?
M/V Star Dancer has a multi-system TV/video unit for videotape and video camera playback, a compact disc player and cassette deck. There is a slide projector and viewer on board. If you have a favorite movie, a slide show or a video to share, we encourage you to bring it along! You may also bring your own favorite musical tapes, CD's, etc.

What weather patterns are typical in PNG?
Papua New Guinea 's climate is generally warm with definite wet and dry seasons, the timings of which vary from one place to another. The wettest months for most regions are November to March, but the rain falls mainly in the evenings and rarely disrupts daily activities. Temperatures in the Highlands region fall quite dramatically at night.

What is the local currency?
The local currency is the Papua New Guinea Kina. The Kina exchange is floating so you may want to research the rate at the time of your departure. Both Kina and US Dollars are accepted on board, but we recommend that guests exchange at least a small amount of money into Kina if they intend to make any purchases on land.

How can I pay for my purchases on board?
The M/V Star Dancer has a small on-board "Boatique" which sells a selection of logo clothing, sundries, diving accessories, film, batteries, logbooks, etc. Prices are quoted in US Dollars, but charges will be expressed in Kina at a fair market rate of exchange. A 10% government VAT tax will be added to all on-board purchases. A crewmember will gladly assist you with your "boutique" purchases at any time during the week. The method of payment for these items may be in US dollars, PNG Kina, Travelers' Checks or credit cards (American Express, MasterCard or Visa are accepted). NO PERSONAL CHECKS ARE ACCEPTED.

Can I earn advanced certifications or specialties on board?
Several diving specialty courses are offered on Star Dancer, but it is necessary to give at least one month notice to Peter Hughes Diving, Inc. in advance of your charter date to ensure that an instructor will have the time available and that all required paperwork is complete. VERY IMPORTANT: IF YOU INTEND TO RECEIVE DIVING INSTRUCTION ON BOARD, YOU MUST COMPLETE A MEDICAL STATEMENT IN ADVANCE AND RETURN IT TO PETER HUGHES DIVING, INC. PRIOR TO DEPARTURE. A doctor's note may be required if you answer yes to any of the questions on the medical statement. A list of available courses and prices is located in our color brochure or website. Non-crew instructors are permitted to give instruction on board if they are in current teaching status with their certifying agency and if they maintain underwater liability insurance. They must obtain a list of companies from Peter Hughes Diving, Inc. to be additionally insured on their Certificate of Insurance. Payment for instruction will only be accepted on board, not in advance.

In what time zone is PNG located?
PNG is (+10 GMT). Daylight savings time is not observed.

What pre/post cruise tours are available?
Your last day with us has been organized to give you time to off gas and enjoy the land sites Rabaul or Walindi have to offer. In Rabaul you have the option of a land tour of the museum, Japanese tunnels, the traditional market, or tour the active volcano by helicopter. All tours are at additional charge, but are highly recommended. If you care to extend your stay in Papua New Guinea for a few days or more, please consult with our reservations staff for some suggestions on the best places to see.

Can I fish or spearfish?
Guests are prohibited from bringing game taking equipment on board the M/V Star Dancer. Guests may remove nothing from the sea.

What is the electrical current on board?
The electrical current on M/V Star Dancer is 110 volts. However, the voltage in all of Papua New Guinea is 240 volts/50 Hz, so guests who extend their visit on land may wish to bring a converter with them for the use of small appliances.

Photographic hints from Stephen Frink - As is typical of our MFT Photo Tours, this is not a photo seminar, but an opportunity for like-minded photo enthusiasts to come together to enjoy unique photo opportunities. Papua New Guinea is well suited for wide-angle and fish photography, as well as for the macro images for which it is probably best known. As such, you'll need to pack a complete imaging arsenal.

In terms of Canon lenses, I'll be bringing a 15mm for super wide underwater work and over/unders, a 17-40 zoom for general purpose wide-angle and large marine life, a 50mm macro for general fish portraits, and a 100mm macro for night dives and macro use. The Nikon equivalent lenses would be 10.5mm, 12-24mm, 60mm macro and 105mm macro.

Important - For Seacam shooters, there are new wet diopters that are perfect for this application. If you aren't already aware of this product, please visit: http://wetpixel.com/i.php/full/seacam-announces-second-wet-diopter/ and http://wetpixel.com/i.php/full/seacam-wet-diopter/.