The stingrays off Moorea are every bit as gregarious as those found at Stingray City on Grand Cayman.

French Polynesia is one of the more misunderstood dive destinations in the world. The fact that many people know it as Tahiti is symptomatic of this confusion; Tahiti is just one of this country’s many islands, albeit the largest and most commercial one. This exquisite string of 118 islands and atolls is located in the South Pacific, halfway between California and Australia. The international airport on Tahiti is just a seven-and-a-half-hour flight from Los Angeles, and there is a 12-hour direct flight from New York. When you consider how exotic these islands are, that they are this accessible from the U.S. mainland is quite remarkable.

Yet the greatest perception-versus-reality conundrum probably relates to diving. I hear even savvy world travelers pontificate that "Tahiti is just sharks" or "Tahiti is just drift diving." Well, French Polynesia certainly has plenty of sharks. And there are some extraordinary drift dives, especially through passes in the atolls where the flow of nutrients attracts huge schools of crimson bigeyes and, at times, walls of gray reef sharks. But these islands offer so much more, from big pelagics like manta rays and humpbacks to friendly reef tropicals in shallow water.

A shark feed off Moorea often brings black-tip reef sharks (pictured here), gray reef sharks, lemon sharks and even silver-tips.

As seen from the air, Bora Bora and Moorea are the very definition of tropical paradise. Here, verdant, mountainous peaks rimmed with white beaches are surrounded by turquoise lagoons, barrier reefs and the indigo of the outlying abyss. But from below water level, a new beauty is revealed.

On Moorea I enjoyed a stingray encounter rivaling Cayman’s Stingray City. On a shallow sandbar, dozens of Tahitian stingrays politely nibbled baitfish while small black-tip reef sharks patrolled the periphery. Along the drop-off, black-tips and lemon sharks were commonly seen, but remained disinterested in divers and hung out in the distance. Taking bait into the water definitely amped up the action, and within moments a few dozen sharks zoomed into camera range. Bora Bora offers great shark action as well, but it is the island’s consistent manta ray encounters that are most iconic.

The Tuamotu archipelago lacks the postcard beauty of French Polynesia’s high islands, but it offers a diver’s paradise of stunning visibility, pristine hard corals and abundant marine life. The marquee Tuamotus dives are in the channels separating the open ocean from the inner lagoons. The best diving is timed to incoming tides, when large groups of gray reef sharks congregate. The currents also consolidate schooling fish, particularly jacks and bigeyes. However, the Tuamotus offer more than drift diving. Diving away from the passes provides little or no current and gentle encounters with reef tropicals. Off Rangiroa there is an unusual, intimate encounter with silver-tip sharks.

While Rangiroa and Fakarava are traditional destinations for divers either cruising on the Tahiti Aggressor live-aboard or staying at any of a number of dedicated land-based dive resorts, during the humpback season (July through October) remote Rurutu in the Austral Islands is a diver’s mecca. Charters provide snorkelers the opportunity to interact with whales in water that often has a clarity exceeding 200 feet. The water is cool this time of year, so free-diving in a wetsuit may be challenging. But with a friendly whale, this may be an experience like no other.

Divers encounter abundant marine life even in the crystalline shallows of French Polynesia.

If you accept that there is more to life than just diving, French Polynesia may be the ideal destination; in addition to its underwater attractions, these islands are among the most scenic on earth. The fact that the tourist infrastructure is so sophisticated is a huge plus as well. Air Tahiti Nui has an amazing network of on-time flights that operate from its Papeete hub on Tahiti to popular islands like Moorea and Bora Bora several times a day. Even more remote islands like Rangiroa and Fakarava are accessible by daily flights, so visiting more than one island during a weeklong trip is very manageable. French Polynesia’s accommodations range from upscale five-star resorts with romantic overwater bungalows to more modest three-star dedicated dive resorts that are big on service, value and diver convenience. There are even intimate bed-and-breakfasts for those seeking more local color and economy. Be sure to leave time for an island tour or a self-guided beachcombing expedition. And whatever else you do, plan a sunset photo-op. Find a beach where you can frame the golden rays of the setting sun with scenic palm trees and vast ocean vistas. The good new is that this can happen almost anywhere in these picturesque isles.

When not diving in french polynesia, don’t miss the islands’ many unique topside activities:

Tour the islands. Nearly every island has a coastal road, and the High Islands provide magnificent scenic overlooks. Rent a car for the day or book a 4x4 safari.

Shop for cultured pearls. The Tahitian pearl ranges from black to green, blue, bronze and pink. The pearl farms in the Tuamotu Archipelago and the sophisticated boutiques on Tahiti support an extensive pearl industry.

Indulge at a spa. Relax while taking a fresh-flower bath, herbal rain shower, or even a banana leaf body wrap at one of French Polynesia’s many resort spas.

Cruise the waters. There are elegant cruise ships, passenger freighter voyages and even small catamarans for intimate sailing. Picnic on a motu. Most resorts can organize a private picnic on a small motu, or tiny islet within the lagoon.

Take a helicopter tour. The view of these islands from the air is positively breathtaking.

Dive In

The Polynesian dance show at Tahiti’s Intercontinental Beachcomber Resort spotlights the islands’ rich cultural heritage.

Water Conditions > Generally 80 degrees and above year-round, though water temps can climb slightly to the mid-80s during the summer. Outside the atolls, visibility is 100 feet or more, but inside the atolls and passes, vis drops to an average of 60 feet.

Documents > A one-month visa is granted on arrival for U.S. citizens. Passport must be valid for six months. Money Matters: Local currency is the French Pacific franc (CFP), though credit cards and U.S. currency are commonly accepted.

Time > The islands are just two hours behind Pacific Standard Time. During daylight saving time (April to late October), the islands are three hours behind.

Electricity > Though some hotels use 220 volts, most use 110 volts, 60 cycles, the same as in the U.S. American appliances require an adapter.

Language > French is the official language, though English is widely spoken in the main tourist areas, restaurants, shops, hotels and resorts.

Tourism > Tahiti Tourisme North America, web: www.tahiti-tourisme.com.